Thursday, August 5, 2010

Journal Entries West Of The Continental Divide

Haystacks To Haystacks Daily Log
(a.k.a. Our Life Behind Bars

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Haystacks To Haystacks Daily Log
(a.k.a. Our Life Behind Bars)
West Of The Continental Divide


Wednesday August 4 Day 53
Ovando, MT to Missoula, MT
55 Miles (2099)

Holy awesome ride AGAIN! We truly enjoyed our stretch today! The terrain was mostly rolling along side the Blackfoot River. We saw a lot of fly fishermen and inner tubers and rafters! We were amazed at the water and how clear it is! We had a light 8-10 mile an hour tailwind which made us so happy! The espresso was great at the Blackfoot Espresso Stand in Milltown located just 7 miles east of Missoula. Such a great place! As we descended into Missoula the traffic increased and we took the first exit on Van Buren.

Thursday August 5 Day 55
Missoula, MT
0 Miles (2099)

Check out the town. Hob Nob Restaurant, Break Coffee, Missoula Cycles. Change out Linda's new rear tire and install new tube. Found a 1/8" piece of wire embedded in the old tube. Guess it is a piece of steel belted radial truck tires that pervasively litter the shoulders of the road along with broken glass. Dinner and music under the bridge on Higgins St. Love the little donuts!

Friday August 6 Day 56
Missoula, MT
0 Miles (2099)

Spin class at Revolution @9 a.m. Nuts. Bob rocked this class and is so READY to get certified as an instructor!

Larry and Teah and Madison came to Missoula in the evening! So happy they came! Larry found his brakes were making a funny noise so he took his truck to Les Schwab and had to install new brakes in the rear of his truck. While he was taking care of that, We took the girls for breakfast at Hob Nob and walked them down to the Saturday Market desperately trying to find someone to do some face painting on them! We walked through the market and decided to get out of the sun and get some Espresso at Liquid Planet! We met up with Larry and took the girls to ride the carousel and then to play on the huge play set! We then walked down by the river to watch the kayakers practice riding the currant! The girls were busy with a small snake for quite a while and were drawing "I love Lindy" in the sand and showing me their muddy hands! My sister Gladys and her husband Tom drove down from Glacier to visit us and have dinner with us at Ciao Mambo. An awesome dinner and great conversation. The girls were great and well-behaved and we all had a blast!


Saturday August 7 Day 57
Missoula, MT
0 Miles (2099)


Sunday August 8 Day 58
Missoula, MT to Powell, ID (Lochsa Lodge)
58 Miles (2057)

Leaving Missoula
Meeting a couple on their tandem from Massachusetts Bret and Jennie
Climbing to Lolo Pass
Met 3 guys who were college buddies from Cornell going from Anacordes to Virginia
Milesformeals.com
Cabin #5 at the Lochsa Lodge

Monday August 9 Day 59
Powell, ID to Lowell, ID (Three Rivers Lodge)
65 Miles (2119)

Left Lochsa Lodge at about 9:30am to a beautiful morning after breakfast at the lodge cafe. The ride to Lowell was exceptional. A beautiful powered-easy pedaling coast along the wild and scenic Lochsa River. So many pines up near vertical hill sides. Amazing! And the smell of pine in that abundance is oh so wonderful. A few sprinkles in the late afternoon but to be expected in the mountains. We had heard great thing about Three Rivers Lodge... All rumor once we arrived. Overpriced room, and really mediocre 60's decor. Blankets with holes... but the roof did not leak and that was a good thing because it really, really poured this evening!

Poor Lindy, another flat tire just 4 mile short of our destination. :( boo. Back tire again. Staple...drat.

Tuesday August 10 Day 60
Lowell, ID (Three Rivers Lodge) to Graingville, ID.
51 Miles (2170). Elevation gain today = 3,000 feet.

Another lovey ride through the Clearwater National Forest along Locha and Clearwater Rivers. The black berries were in great abundance and we harvested a few along the ride. Forty miles into the ride we began our climb to Graingville. It is a ten mile six percent grade. Not terrible, but definitely requires sustained effort. Midway into the climb the clouds began to drip on us but it was welcome relief against the late afternoon heat. We cruised into town, found the Lion's Park for camping, and then let the local police know we would be staying the night. Next, found a good Mexican restaurant and ate two hearty meals. Delicious!

Wednesday August 11 Day 61
Graingeville, ID to Riggins, ID
58 Miles (2228)

A slow beginning to the day as we attempted to dry out our clothes from the day before which was all but impossible because of the down pours during the night which while we were snug in our tent. Opened the tent fly early, saw we were "socked in" with fog, closed the tent fly, went back to sleep. We traveled from the city park a few blocks for breakfast, and then to a local laundromat to dry out. While Linda did the drying, Bob went for a hair cut / trim so as to look more human. Found an espresso stand a few blocks from the laundromat and enjoyed sipping a latte while watching the clothes tumble, and the fog lift. We finally got on the road about 11 a.m. And traversed some of the most amazing scenery along Highway 95 and Old Highway 95 just before the town of White Bird. At White Bird we intersected the Salmon River and tour evenings destination. What more can I say but, "beautiful"!

Thursday August 12 Day 62
Riggins, ID to Council, ID
60 Miles (2288).

Another glorious cycling day! Had a nice time chatting with Scott and his wife Rose the owners of the BIG IRON hotel we stayed in, in Riggins, ID! What a great place! Complimentary soda and beer upon arriving and homemade cookies by their daughter! The room was huge and so clean! The setting among steep hills that surround the river valley were amazing! We were slow in departing by 9:15am after we had breakfast and of course, espresso! we began a steady climb out of Riggins and followed the Salmon River as it turned into the Little Salmon River through intensely thick hillsides of Pine trees.

Approximately 22 miles south of Riggins Scott and Rose zoomed past us and pulled into a slow vehicle turnout and waved us over! They were angels of mercy! They offered us smoked salmon and fresh, cold bottled water! They arrived right when we began a hill climb so the distraction was welcome!

We met a couple from Texas/Louisiana and are retired! Carole and Dave Shelby traveling the same route we are! They depart at the butt-crack of morning so they finish a bit earlier than we do!

Friday August 13 Day 63
Council, ID to Oxbow Dam, ID.
62 Miles (2350)

WELCOME TO OREGON!

That's what the sign said, just after Lindy and I held hands and coasted across the middle of the Snake River Bridge that defines the Idaho - Oregon border. We both marveled that we have come this far. Although we never doubted we would make it, going across so many different terrains in the last two months, and looking at so many maps it just seemed so far. And yet, looking back, it seems like only a week ago we said "good bye" to family in Spring Grove. Last night, we dug out our final ACA map, Baker City, OR to Eugene, OR. Only 340 miles to our destination, drop the gear with Matt, and then make the final dash to the sea coast for a front tire dip. Well, all that rill have to wait for the while, today 70 miles to Baker City. Getting a 6 a.m. Start for the extra miles and the expected heat of the day. Happy Birthday to my brother Paul!

Saturday August 14 Day 64
Oxbow Dam, OR to Baker City, OR
70 Miles (2420)

We awakened at 5:30am to break camp in the beautiful Copperfield Park campground after a killer evening of zero humidity and almost no bugs! Absolutely a perfect evening and a perfect morning! The ride began with som light climbing all very gradual ascents for approximately 17 miles that brought us to a mini-town that displayed a Farmer's market as we entered the MainStreet of Halfway, OR. We settled for a light breakfast across the street from the market, purchased some fresh peaches and a homemade cinnamon roll for a summit snack and headed out into the desert to begin our ascent to the first pass at 3,653 feet. The long, slow ascent was welcome since the sun was now high in the sky. At the top we celebrated with some stretching, food and a high five before beginning our breezy descent. Absolutely lovely after all our effort. :)

The screaming descent into Richland was nothing shirt of awesome since it was located in a valley of the mountains we just climbed to get there and no switchbacks to slow us down! So great and felt liberating to feel the fast wind cooling us down! We made a quick stop at a darling log wrapped grocery store where Bob bought some refreshments to replenish our systems. We visited with a man who looked a bit weathered but was toughed as the local journalist that frequents the Alps of Europe and evidently compares this are of Oregon to them. (?) he seemed interested in our expedition and of course offered us information about areas that were not on our defined route we had chosen to take. We wished him well and were steadily on our way out of the valley once again to approach our next pass and climb. We followed much of the Powder River among exposed lava flows and very desert vegetation. We consistently marvel at the vegetation that DOES grow because it is so dry and desolate. We came upon a small "rest area" called Bishop's Springs and were elated to finds a pipe sticking out from underneath a large SOLO Birch tree and it was ice cold! We saturated our handkerchiefs and out shirts since the temps were hovering at the 90 degree mark and in anticipation of our climb out of the river valleys to Flagstaff Hill. (bugs me that they call something 3,684 feet tall a "hill". This HILL proved to be a challenging one at a consistent 5% grade for approx. 5 miles. When you're sweating off your sunscreen and drinking the last of your 8 lbs of water grinding your sore bum into your seat for 8 hours the eagerness for the crest of the HILL comes prematurely...this is NOT for the easily discouraged! We dug deep for the crest of the hill, skipped the interpretive center to get some air that only the top overlooking Baker City could provide! What a relief to feel a bit of a downhill and breeze on our weary bodies into the valley! We stopped to take a photo of a line of old forgotten trucks in a field for our dear friend Tom Swailes of Platteville.

A few miles just up the road awaited our hotel! We put forth an intense effort for tonight's reward of pizza and Mike's hard cranberry lemonade to cool our souls. What an awesome day of cycling accomplishments. We don't NEED a reason to celebrate today but somehow our route, terrain, conditions and sweat quickly made even dinner a celebration of our camaraderie and intense spirit to get through the hills together.

Wow, what an amazing thing to feel this sense of accomplishment through sheer will and consistency. I wish I was better at writing to help you comprehend what my soul feels right now. So much love, joy and power...from riding a bike and taking the time to appreciate all that surrounds me everyday. What a great life I have and how grateful I am to feel what I feel right now. Life is so damn good. :)

Sunday August 15 Day 65
Baker City, OR
0 Miles (2350)
Chill day in Baker!

Monday August 16 Day 66
53 Miles (2403)
Baker City, OR to Austin Junction, OR

Cycling was amazing today under cloudless skies for yet another day. Truth be told, I believe we are hard pressed to recall a cloud in the last three days. The forecast promises more of the same. I love the warm low humidity days here in Oregon, and how it cools down so nicely at night. I also appreciate the fact that the air here is so clear compared to the to humid air of the Midwest.
We had two back-to-back challenging assents this afternoon, both followed by 30 mph long descents to replenish the legs, lungs, and cycling souls. The scenery here in eastern Oregon is just short of amazing, and the road surfaces are excellent.

We were just marveling at the fact that our journey is quickly coming to a close. Less than one week of riding left to go, and four more mountain passes to Eugene. On one hand, it seems as though we only began last week, our time has gone by so quickly. On the other hand, we are beginning to long for small items that make our everyday lives pleasurable; anytime access to indoor plumbing, dresser drawers, and curling irons! Tomorrow we have one pass at 5247' early in the morning, then a long 50 mile down hill decent to Dayville, OR. Looking forward to visiting the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument day after tomorrow.

Tuesday August 17 Day 67
60Miles (2463)
Austin Junction, OR to Dayville, OR

After experiencing a brisk night and morning of camping behind the store and cafe in Austin Junction we packed up and were ready for our climb to Dixie Pass!
The temps were down to 36 degrees and it took some effort to get moving! we began our cycling day in full leggings and jackets, quickly shedding them at the base of the climb to the pass.

The descent into the Prairie City Valley was amazing! More beautiful mountains to surround the valley! We stopped to take a few photos and were quickly on our way to grab some breakfast. We continued to John Day to find a great espresso shop and tanning salon with an adorable schipperke that I fell in love with! We continue a sweltering ride to Dayville with temps ranging from 100-110! At least it's a dry heat! The ride to the Fish House Bed and Breakfast was pretty level but the heat was really getting to us! Off to Mitchell tomorrow a rather short day with a climb through Keyes Creek Pass! Stay tuned!

Wednesday August 18 Day 68
40 Miles (2503)
Dayville, OR to Mitchell, OR

Places like Mitchell are fading away. Sad. Every other building or business in Mitchell is either falling down, or closed, respectively. Fortunately the Oregon Hotel and the Little Pine Cafe are still here. Forty dollars at the hotel gets you a clean room at the top of stairs and a communal bathroom. This is a place where cell phones do not work. Lindy and I walked the town on ten minutes... Right down the middle of Main Street I might add.

It was a low milage day today, but total climbing from Dayville. Five hours of pretty much straight saddle time. The grade was not difficult, averaging around 4 or 5 percent, and the climb took us through some pretty amazing scenery of Picture Gorge cut by the John Day River adjacent to the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. We elected to pass on visiting the monument in order to end our ride sooner in the day before the temperatures climbed into the 90's like yesterday. We rolled along passing through Juniper forest and finally passing upward into evergreens leaving the sage behind in the valley below. At about 2 p.m. We began to feel the tell-tale breeze notifying us that our climb was nearing the end. Ahead was the sign Keys Creek Pass, Elevation 4357 Feet, a welcome sign. Then the descent! Six percent grade for eight miles - right to the door of the hotel! Tomorrow, Redmond, OR.